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Introducing The Permanent Style Trench Coat


The Perfect Trench

Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop, or our UK manufacturing debate, will have seen it in person. Long, muted-green and with classic style in the lapel and collar, it has become a foundation of my wardrobe since I started wearing a prototype in February.

The removable lining, high collar and taped seams make it very practical, but it also has real swagger: a stylish update of a traditional model. Only nine pieces are available in this batch, across four sizes (small, medium, large and extra-large). So what's special about it? First, let's talk about the material.

 


Cotton Ventile

So what's special about it? First, let's talk about the material. Cotton Ventile is perfect for a coat like this. It doesn’t have rustle of synthetic waterproofs, but is entirely waterproof once the seams are taped, and ages well - softening and fading slowly at the seams. I picked dark olive in order to be an effective bridge between formal and casual wear. As shown in the imagery, it is smart enough to be worn with a suit and tie, yet relaxed enough for knitwear. Private White VC’s distinctive copper hardware also comes up nicely against the olive. It too is uncoated, and will gain a patina over time.

The project started with a discussion with Private White VC of a coat they already make - the Despatch Motor Trench - but we wanted to tweak in several ways. The most important point was length.


Great Lengths

Trench coats have been cut shorter and shorter in recent years, which not only denies them the swish and swagger of a great, long coat, but is highly impractical. In the rain, water simply streams off the bottom and onto the knees as you walk. So I added four inches to the length, meaning it sits definitively below the knee. There is also a small, hidden flap at the bottom of the coat, which allows it to be fully closed across the knees if required.

Other design changes included a wider, more pointed lapel that gives the coat a touch more flair; a squaring off of the gun flaps so they mirror that collar and the lapel; and an additional jigger button on the inside of the lining. That lining is removable and a wool/cashmere mix. I’ve had so many waterproof coats over the years that could only be worn one or two seasons because they didn’t have a removable lining.

  • Big hip pockets, with wool/cashmere lining in the front
  • An angled despatch chest pocket (perfect for a phone)
  • A great throat latch on the collar (which now fastens with a stud on one side)
  • D-rings on the belt
  • In-set sleeves on the front of the coat, to give a cleaner appearance, but raglan sleeves on the back, to aid movement
  • Gun flaps on the shoulders at the front, and a saddle piece across the back
  • Dark-brown horn buttons, fastening that double-breasted front all the way up
  • A separate word should also be said about the belt, which is distinctive of these Private White VC coats.

 

The Perfect Trench

Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop, or our UK manufacturing debate, will have seen it in person. Long, muted-green and with classic style in the lapel and collar, it has become a foundation of my wardrobe since I started wearing a prototype in February.

The removable lining, high collar and taped seams make it very practical, but it also has real swagger: a stylish update of a traditional model. Only nine pieces are available in this batch, across four sizes (small, medium, large and extra-large). So what's special about it? First, let's talk about the material.

 

Cotton Ventile

So what's special about it? First, let's talk about the material. Cotton Ventile is perfect for a coat like this. It doesn’t have rustle of synthetic waterproofs, but is entirely waterproof once the seams are taped, and ages well - softening and fading slowly at the seams. I picked dark olive in order to be an effective bridge between formal and casual wear. As shown in the imagery, it is smart enough to be worn with a suit and tie, yet relaxed enough for knitwear. Private White VC’s distinctive copper hardware also comes up nicely against the olive. It too is uncoated, and will gain a patina over time.

 

The project started with a discussion with Private White VC of a coat they already make - the Despatch Motor Trench - but we wanted to tweak in several ways. The most important point was length.

 

 

Great Lengths

Trench coats have been cut shorter and shorter in recent years, which not only denies them the swish and swagger of a great, long coat, but is highly impractical. In the rain, water simply streams off the bottom and onto the knees as you walk. So I added four inches to the length, meaning it sits definitively below the knee. There is also a small, hidden flap at the bottom of the coat, which allows it to be fully closed across the knees if required.

Other design changes included a wider, more pointed lapel that gives the coat a touch more flair; a squaring off of the gun flaps so they mirror that collar and the lapel; and an additional jigger button on the inside of the lining. That lining is removable and a wool/cashmere mix. I’ve had so many waterproof coats over the years that could only be worn one or two seasons because they didn’t have a removable lining.

 

  • Big hip pockets, with wool/cashmere lining in the front
  • An angled despatch chest pocket (perfect for a phone)
  • A great throat latch on the collar (which now fastens with a stud on one side)
  • D-rings on the belt
  • In-set sleeves on the front of the coat, to give a cleaner appearance, but raglan sleeves on the back, to aid movement
  • Gun flaps on the shoulders at the front, and a saddle piece across the back
  • Dark-brown horn buttons, fastening that double-breasted front all the way up
  • A separate word should also be said about the belt, which is distinctive of these Private White VC coats.

 

 

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