A Wealth of Material: The Riri Zip

As so often with everyday inventions, the zip has become so commonplace as to be almost ignored. Each time you fasten your jacket or trousers, you are utilising a complex piece of technology. Its origins lie in 19th century America, where it was initially suggested as a fastener for hook and eye boots, before finally being adapted for clothing.

By the 1930s the device had taken hold and acquired its distinctive onomatopoeic name. Dubbed the ‘Battle of the Fly’, debate remained about its effectiveness when compared to buttons. Esquire in 1937 sided with the zip as the best way of avoiding “the possibility of unintentional and embarrassing disarray.”

Post-war, zips truly took off fastening everything from hot pants to spacesuits. While the majority of production is now in Asia, the finest zips in the world are made in Switzerland. Riri, based near Lake Lugano, have been at the forefront of this industry for more than 80 years and maintained a level of quality that exceeds other zips.

As so often with everyday inventions, the zip has become so commonplace as to be almost ignored. Each time you fasten your jacket or trousers, you are utilising a complex piece of technology. Its origins lie in 19th century America, where it was initially suggested as a fastener for hook and eye boots, before finally being adapted for clothing.

By the 1930s the device had taken hold and acquired its distinctive onomatopoeic name. Dubbed the ‘Battle of the Fly’, debate remained about its effectiveness when compared to buttons. Esquire in 1937 sided with the zip as the best way of avoiding “the possibility of unintentional and embarrassing disarray.”

Post-war, zips truly took off fastening everything from hot pants to spacesuits. While the majority of production is now in Asia, the finest zips in the world are made in Switzerland. Riri, based near Lake Lugano, have been at the forefront of this industry for more than 80 years and maintained a level of quality that exceeds other zips.

“I must have worn this jacket for about 14 years. It’s worn out but the zip is like new.”

MIKE STOLL, MD AT PRIVATE WHITE V.C.

At the mention of Riri, Mike Stoll, MD at Private White V.C. and veteran of the Manchester clothing industry, vanishes into his extensive archive and reappears - his arms laden with coats. Selecting one, he explains: “I must have worn this jacket for about 14 years. It’s worn out now but the zip is like new.”

The Riri brand, to which Mike was first introduced in the 1990s by Sir Paul Smith, is the only one we will use and one of the few elements of their clothing produced outside the United Kingdom. These Swiss metal zips appear throughout their range, from the signature Ventile Mac to Harringtons and bomber jackets.

The zip is perhaps most evident on our famous Twintrack, named with reference to the two fasteners that race parallel down its front. A section of this wax motorcycling jacket can be removed, allowing for either a tailored silhouette or greater movement when wearing additional layers outdoors. Opening top and bottom for convenience and comfort, these two-way zips, as with all those in the our range, are so called ‘military grade’, requiring a force of almost 73 kg (160 lbs) to break them.

Private White V.C. zips often display a distinctive copper colour – on the Ventile Mac, for instance, which echoes the same tone in its rivets, seam tape and hanging loop. The finish is in homage to Private Jack White, after whom our brand is named. In 1917, he used copper communications wire to tow to safety the boat in which his comrades were under fire and for his actions was awarded the Victoria Cross.

Unnoticed, zips fit seamlessly into our daily lives. However, by using the highest quality hardware, we have subtly united function with style. As elsewhere in their collection, in the use of Riri zips they have shown that what appears invisible should not be taken for granted. A statement that quality should be felt, rather than simply seen. There’s an idea to fasten onto…

At the mention of Riri, Mike Stoll, MD at Private White V.C. and veteran of the Manchester clothing industry, vanishes into his extensive archive and reappears - his arms laden with coats. Selecting one, he explains: “I must have worn this jacket for about 14 years. It’s worn out now but the zip is like new.”

The Riri brand, to which Mike was first introduced in the 1990s by Sir Paul Smith, is the only one we will use and one of the few elements of their clothing produced outside the United Kingdom. These Swiss metal zips appear throughout their range, from the signature Ventile Mac to Harringtons and bomber jackets.

The zip is perhaps most evident on our famous Twintrack, named with reference to the two fasteners that race parallel down its front. A section of this wax motorcycling jacket can be removed, allowing for either a tailored silhouette or greater movement when wearing additional layers outdoors. Opening top and bottom for convenience and comfort, these two-way zips, as with all those in the our range, are so called ‘military grade’, requiring a force of almost 73 kg (160 lbs) to break them.

Private White V.C. zips often display a distinctive copper colour – on the Ventile Mac, for instance, which echoes the same tone in its rivets, seam tape and hanging loop. The finish is in homage to Private Jack White, after whom our brand is named. In 1917, he used copper communications wire to tow to safety the boat in which his comrades were under fire and for his actions was awarded the Victoria Cross.

Unnoticed, zips fit seamlessly into our daily lives. However, by using the highest quality hardware, we have subtly united function with style. As elsewhere in their collection, in the use of Riri zips they have shown that what appears invisible should not be taken for granted. A statement that quality should be felt, rather than simply seen. There’s an idea to fasten onto…