FILTER_EDITORIAL

Unpicking The Zip Up Funnel Neck

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Time To Read: 4 minutes

 

Jersey is usually an afterthought, an addition added to collections to bulk them out, or to provide a comfortable loungewear offering that might not have previously existed. Rarely is the same thought and attention given to mainline collections applied to jersey, with inferior construction and second rate fabric often being a sticking point.

Time To Read: 4 minutes

 

Jersey is usually an afterthought, an addition added to collections to bulk them out, or to provide a comfortable loungewear offering that might not have previously existed. Rarely is the same thought and attention given to mainline collections applied to jersey, with inferior construction and second rate fabric often being a sticking point. This is not so with our jersey range, with this, the funnel neck zip up, a particular highlight. More of a jacket than a sweatshirt, it features our signature RIRI copper zip as well as two front hand warmer pockets, raglan sleeves and the same kind of attention to detail we apply to our best selling outerwear. Plus, it’s made right here in our Manchester factory. Let's look at it a little closer.

The funnel neck is all about that zip. Made in collaboration with RIRI, the military grade copper immediately stands out, regardless of which colour you go for. The same zip we use for our outerwear, it’s incredibly satisfying to use and thanks to its robust design, will likely outlive the wearer. While it’s a match for sturdier outerwear fabrics, it’s incredibly difficult to combine it with jersey. That’s where our expertise comes in. We’ve produced luxury garments in our factory for over a century, so we know a thing or two about working with difficult materials.

To get the zip to sit completely flat on a jersey garment is not easy, but we’ve put just the right amount of stitches in so there’s no curvature. It also zips two ways, so you can adjust the bottom of the jacket so it doesn’t ride up. And that’s the difference with this piece. It’s more of a jacket than it is a sweatshirt, with its funnel neck, front pockets and raglan sleeves bringing it closer to our Harrington than our crew neck. This is a garment you can throw on for wearing around the house thanks to its extreme comfort and soft cotton jersey. But it’s also smart enough as a mid layer under an insulated gilet or raincoat.

But back to that fabric for a moment. Cotton jersey is a notoriously difficult fabric to work with thanks to its stretch and flexibility, so choosing the right one makes all the difference. It was a painstaking process, but, collaborating with jersey specialist Andrew Shane - who’s worked with the stuff for over 40 years - we eventually settled on a heavyweight, 425g cotton loopback. The industry standard for jersey is usually around 300g, so it’s considerably heavier, and you feel this immediately when you pick the funnel neck up. That said, it’s not too heavy, and remains breathable and light enough to wear under heavier outerwear.

As for the other details, we settled on raglan shoulders for ultimate comfort. Some of our other jersey pieces have inset sleeves, but the slouchy, relaxed feel of raglan suits the more jacket-like feel of this piece. There’s also the double-faced funnel neck, which gives the collar structure as well as feeling soft against the wearer’s chin; the large front pockets with just the right amount of depth, and the copper rivet on the bottom of the left pocket - a signature of our jersey series. The jacket, of course, looks just as smart on the inside, with cover stitched seams tidying up any raw fabric edges, giving it a clean, minimal feel that mirrors the construction of our outerwear.

The zip up funnel neck, as with all our jersey, is a fundamentally casual garment. And yet, with its luxurious detailing and over-engineered construction, it can take on a smarter feel should you need it. Indeed, you can treat it as you would any other relaxed, lightweight jacket.

While you wouldn’t necessarily wear the funnel neck with a shirt and tie, you can very much wear is as a mid layer for travelling to the office, it’s perfect over a soft collar Oxford shirt, or a long sleeve knitted polo. It also works with chinos or tailored trousers, and can be finished with a pair of loafers or Derbies.

This is not so with our jersey range, with this, the funnel neck zip up, a particular highlight. More of a jacket than a sweatshirt, it features our signature RIRI copper zip as well as two front hand warmer pockets, raglan sleeves and the same kind of attention to detail we apply to our best selling outerwear. Plus, it’s made right here in our Manchester factory. Let's look at it a little closer.

The funnel neck is all about that zip. Made in collaboration with RIRI, the military grade copper immediately stands out, regardless of which colour you go for. The same zip we use for our outerwear, it’s incredibly satisfying to use and thanks to its robust design, will likely outlive the wearer. While it’s a match for sturdier outerwear fabrics, it’s incredibly difficult to combine it with jersey. That’s where our expertise comes in. We’ve produced luxury garments in our factory for over a century, so we know a thing or two about working with difficult materials.

To get the zip to sit completely flat on a jersey garment is not easy, but we’ve put just the right amount of stitches in so there’s no curvature. It also zips two ways, so you can adjust the bottom of the jacket so it doesn’t ride up. And that’s the difference with this piece. It’s more of a jacket than it is a sweatshirt, with its funnel neck, front pockets and raglan sleeves bringing it closer to our Harrington than our crew neck. This is a garment you can throw on for wearing around the house thanks to its extreme comfort and soft cotton jersey. But it’s also smart enough as a mid layer under a trench or raincoat.

But back to that fabric for a moment. Cotton jersey is a notoriously difficult fabric to work with thanks to its stretch and flexibility, so choosing the right one makes all the difference. It was a painstaking process, but, collaborating with jersey specialist Andrew Shane - who’s worked with the stuff for over 40 years - we eventually settled on a heavyweight, 425g cotton loopback. The industry standard for jersey is usually around 300g, so it’s considerably heavier, and you feel this immediately when you pick the funnel neck up. That said, it’s not too heavy, and remains breathable and light enough to wear under heavier outerwear.

As for the other details, we settled on raglan shoulders for ultimate comfort. Some of our other jersey pieces have inset sleeves, but the slouchy, relaxed feel of raglan suits the more jacket-like feel of this piece. There’s also the double-faced funnel neck, which gives the collar structure as well as feeling soft against the wearer’s chin; the large front pockets with just the right amount of depth, and the copper rivet on the bottom of the left pocket - a signature of our jersey series. The jacket, of course, looks just as smart on the inside, with cover stitched seams tidying up any raw fabric edges, giving it a clean, minimal feel that mirrors the construction of our outerwear.

The zip up funnel neck, as with all our jersey, is a fundamentally casual garment. And yet, with its luxurious detailing and over-engineered construction, it can take on a smarter feel should you need it. Indeed, you can treat it as you would any other relaxed, lightweight jacket.

While you wouldn’t necessarily wear the funnel neck with a shirt and tie, you can very much wear it with the former. As a mid layer for travelling to the office, it’s perfect over a soft collar Oxford shirt, or a long sleeve knitted polo. It also works with chinos or tailored trousers, and can be finished with a pair of loafers or Derbies.

It’s a surprisingly versatile jacket that, once you try it on, you won’t want to take off.

THE ZIP UP FUNNEL NECK

THE ZIP UP FUNNEL NECK

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