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Review by Simon Crompton of Permanent Style London, the leading authority of classic and luxury menswear.
“The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with.
This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black. The combination gives the coat the true dark navy colour prized by fans of classic menswear.
But I wouldn’t want it to be just that. Partly because that’s not what a donegal coat is - we’re using authentic donegal yarn, and there have to be flecks a plenty - but also because I didn’t want this to be just a conservative, formal business-type coat.
Review by Simon Crompton of Permanent Style London, the leading authority of classic and luxury menswear.
“The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with.
This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black. The combination gives the coat the true dark navy colour prized by fans of classic menswear.
But I wouldn’t want it to be just that. Partly because that’s not what a donegal coat is - we’re using authentic donegal yarn, and there have to be flecks a plenty - but also because I didn’t want this to be just a conservative, formal business-type coat.
The thing that pleased me most about last year’s iteration, the large mid-grey herringbone, was that it wasn’t quite what people were expecting. The pattern was larger than a traditional overcoat, and this gave it a contemporary feel.
It surprised some readers, but in the end became the most successful collaboration we’ve ever done. That classic pattern, in a slightly larger size, made it wearable with everything from suits to sweats.
This year’s navy is in the same vein.
It’s dark, but the number of brown, cream and grey flecks in it make the coat much less conservative, and (to me) more interesting.
It’s still classic enough to wear with a charcoal suit, white shirt and black shoes (above left). But I think it also looks very stylish - clean and modern - with just a navy knit (above right).
In fact, there are three slightly different office outfits here, in perhaps a futile attempt to reflect many levels of formality: flannel suit and shirt; navy knit and shirt; navy knit alone. All worn with black loafers and the occasional navy watch cap.
And then there's an outfit with jeans and a sweatshirt (right) to show how the same colours could be used in something that is more casual still.
That’s a grey sweat, over a plain T-shirt, with Rubato jeans and Alden boots. The coat looks just as good with a light-wash jean, but the dark denim continues the theme.
Oh and there’s also a shot lower down of the coat with a pink oxford shirt, just to remind us of a different colour navy looks great with. Although no one here needs instructions on what looks good with navy.
The thing that pleased me most about last year’s iteration, the large mid-grey herringbone, was that it wasn’t quite what people were expecting. The pattern was larger than a traditional overcoat, and this gave it a contemporary feel.
It surprised some readers, but in the end became the most successful collaboration we’ve ever done. That classic pattern, in a slightly larger size, made it wearable with everything from suits to sweats.
This year’s navy is in the same vein.
It’s dark, but the number of brown, cream and grey flecks in it make the coat much less conservative, and (to me) more interesting.
It’s still classic enough to wear with a charcoal suit, white shirt and black shoes (above top). But I think it also looks very stylish - clean and modern - with just a navy knit (above bottom).
In fact, there are three slightly different office outfits here, in perhaps a futile attempt to reflect many levels of formality: flannel suit and shirt; navy knit and shirt; navy knit alone. All worn with black loafers and the occasional navy watch cap.
And then there's an outfit with jeans and a sweatshirt (above) to show how the same colours could be used in something that is more casual still.
That’s a grey sweat, over a plain T-shirt, with Rubato jeans and Alden boots. The coat looks just as good with a light-wash jean, but the dark denim continues the theme.
Oh and there’s also a shot lower down of the coat with a pink oxford shirt, just to remind us of a different colour navy looks great with. Although no one here needs instructions on what looks good with navy.
Milad Abedi and I shot this around Somerset House and another few places in London, on a cold and overcast day - and I was struck by how many compliments the coat got.
It might have been that no one had expected the suddenly cold weather, and were envious of any coat at all. But I think it was at least partly how interesting the pattern is.
Walking in and out of the Somerset House cafe, on different occasions, a man and a woman both said ‘nice coat’ as they passed. Anyone who lives in London will know how rare that is, and I can’t help feeling there’s something about this iteration that draws people in.
It’s not anonymous, like a plain navy; but it doesn’t declare itself loudly either. Milad said it reminded him of the images the James Webb space telescope started sending back earlier this year, and I know what he means. The depth of space, with all the constellations scattered across it.
Anyway, that’s 500 words on why I really like this coat, and chose it for this year’s iteration. It is available now on privatewhitevc.com.
For those that haven’t been following this collaboration for the past few years, here are some of the details.
Milad Abedi and I shot this around Somerset House and another few places in London, on a cold and overcast day - and I was struck by how many compliments the coat got.
It might have been that no one had expected the suddenly cold weather, and were envious of any coat at all. But I think it was at least partly how interesting the pattern is.
Walking in and out of the Somerset House cafe, on different occasions, a man and a woman both said ‘nice coat’ as they passed. Anyone who lives in London will know how rare that is, and I can’t help feeling there’s something about this iteration that draws people in.
It’s not anonymous, like a plain navy; but it doesn’t declare itself loudly either. Milad said it reminded him of the images the James Webb space telescope started sending back earlier this year, and I know what he means. The depth of space, with all the constellations scattered across it.
Anyway, that’s 500 words on why I really like this coat, and chose it for this year’s iteration. It is available now on privatewhitevc.com.
For those that haven’t been following this collaboration for the past few years, here are some of the details.
The PS Donegal Coat was born out of a need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Something that could be thrown on, almost without thought, and yet be rigorously designed such that it always flattered the wearer.
To that end, it is a little longer than most (but can be shortened if required) to add a touch of flair, and that’s balanced by a slightly higher collar that effectively frames the face. The collar stays up when put up, due to curved insert on the neck. The standard throat latch is reshaped to sit more elegantly when not in use.
It has both two internal breast pockets, and a large hip pocket in which to keep a hat, book or anything else bulky. The outer hip pockets are lined with cashmere (always my favourite touch).
It has a distinctive yet subtle lining in antique gold; and the buttons are two-hole buffalo horn - a style more commonly seen on Savile Row, and reflecting my love of bespoke.
Just as important as the style, though - in fact probably more so - is the Donegal yarn.
Donegal tweed is so pleasing and unique in its texture. There’s slubbiness in there, an authentic and natural feel, plus great colour variation when you look closely, but compared to other traditional cloths it never feels old-fashioned - unlike a big windowpane check.
The tweed is spun exclusively for us by Donegal Yarns in Ireland, the last remaining mill that makes the yarn - before being woven in Lancashire and manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester.”
The coat is available in navy and herringbone now, in size XS to XXL, here.
Photography: Milad Abedi
Simon wears size 4/M.
THE NAVY PERMANENT STYLE DONEGAL OVERCOAT
The PS Donegal Coat was born out of a need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Something that could be thrown on, almost without thought, and yet be rigorously designed such that it always flattered the wearer.
To that end, it is a little longer than most (but can be shortened if required) to add a touch of flair, and that’s balanced by a slightly higher collar that effectively frames the face. The collar stays up when put up, due to curved insert on the neck. The standard throat latch is reshaped to sit more elegantly when not in use.
It has both two internal breast pockets, and a large hip pocket in which to keep a hat, book or anything else bulky. The outer hip pockets are lined with cashmere (always my favourite touch).
It has a distinctive yet subtle lining in antique gold; and the buttons are two-hole buffalo horn - a style more commonly seen on Savile Row, and reflecting my love of bespoke.
Just as important as the style, though - in fact probably more so - is the Donegal yarn.
Donegal tweed is so pleasing and unique in its texture. There’s slubbiness in there, an authentic and natural feel, plus great colour variation when you look closely, but compared to other traditional cloths it never feels old-fashioned - unlike a big windowpane check.
The tweed is spun exclusively for us by Donegal Yarns in Ireland, the last remaining mill that makes the yarn - before being woven in Lancashire and manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester.”
The coat is available in navy and herringbone now, in size XS to XXL, here.
Photography: Milad Abedi
Simon wears size 4/M.