Our new coat this winter is a wool/cashmere version of the popular Wax Walker.
It’s a versatile coat that I think is the perfect year-round piece for the city, but also great with a knit and jeans at the weekend. We’re calling it, perhaps predictably, the Wool Walker.
It has all the subtle style of its precursor but is smarter, has luxury elements like black suede and, importantly, has a so-called drop liner that makes the interior waterproof.
It has all the subtle style of its precursor but is smarter, has luxury elements like black suede and, importantly, has a so-called drop liner that makes the interior waterproof.
We played around with a few different ways to make the coat more weatherproof; to make it something you could throw on any time, but it was hard to do without fundamentally changing the nice look and feel. So while we also applied a normal water-resistant treatment to the outside, we decided a drop liner would be a good solution. It adds nothing to the weight of the coat, is breathable, and stops any water getting through. Even in heavy rain, the coat might get wet but you won’t.
Practical points like this were important because we’d had a few readers ask about a really versatile hip-length coat. It might be for cycling to the office, where a normal overcoat would be too long, or for commuting or driving, but they wanted something that was good for the office yet also adaptable for different places and situations.
Worn with tailored trousers and smart shoes the coat is elegant in any office, whether with a knit, a gilet, or a full suit underneath. But unlike a double-breasted overcoat, it’s also a very easy piece to wear casually with jeans and a crewneck. Equally, it works well with chinos in beige, olive or dark brown, or even paired with a cap for a more relaxed look.
Worn with tailored trousers and smart shoes the coat is elegant in any office, whether with a knit, a gilet, or a full suit underneath. But unlike a double-breasted overcoat, it’s also a very easy piece to wear casually with jeans and a crewneck. Equally, it works well with chinos in beige, olive or dark brown, or even paired with a cap for a more relaxed look.
The Wool Walker retains all the nice design elements from the waxed version. My personal favourite is the way the hand-warmer pockets are hidden within the seam running down the chest: much cleaner than most designs but sacrificing none of the practicality.
The back panel runs seamlessly over the top of the shoulders, removing that weak point when it comes to rain, and the back has real, working pleats on either side that are connected to a panel of jersey underneath. This creates a flattering shape on the back, as well as creating huge freedom of movement.
Elsewhere, there’s a two-way zip that enables you to just have the top zipped up (useful for cycling) and a mobile pocket inside the front panel, meaning you can access a phone without having to unfasten everything and let in the cold.
The outer material is a 20oz fabric we developed with Marling & Evans, a 90/10 split of wool and cashmere. It has a nice soft handle but also real substance and density.
In terms of seasons, I’d wear this with a shirt or lightweight knit into early autumn, and then through into winter with a cashmere jacket or chunky rollneck. The drop liner also adds a nice touch of wind-resistance, while the waist cinches in to add either warmth or shape, depending on the thickness of the layers underneath.
A nice luxury element is the black suede used on the undercollar, pocket flaps and on the ends of the sleeves. I really like the touch of style the suede gives, and it also adds strength to the collar.
One thing I have noticed in wearing this coat over the past few months is how good its collar looks down. As readers will be aware I love a popped collar, but it’s great to look good with the collar down too — either as a matter of style or just because it’s a subtler option.
The coat has been beautifully made by Private White V.C. in Manchester, and we’ve kept just a couple of references to the copper hardware — the rivets on the back, the pullers inside — but elsewhere the fastenings are black with a copper logo or text, in keeping with the suede elements.
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