Being 186cm tall (6’1”) I’ve often struggled to find a trench coat with sufficient length to balance my frame. I also want it to be waterproof and breathable, hence rubber laminating is out of the question. I found my solution in The Olive Permanent Style Motor Trench made of Ventile, a densely woven waterproof cotton fabric. Its tone harmonizes with most other garments in my wardrobe, blues and browns as well as greys and blacks.

The design goes hand in hand with my philosophy that every combination should hold a significant measure of attitude and rock’n roll. The oversized collar, the slanted map pocket, and the asymmetric half belt sets it apart from the ocean of beige, checkered lining coats out there, giving the coat (and its wearer) an unmistakable identity and integrity. The coat’s well balanced sleeve width comfortably accommodates a heavy jacket sleeve, at the same time as it is not too wide and flowy to wear with just a shirt or a sweater.

The Permanent Style Motor Trench, Worn 3 Ways.

My ambition with this interpretation of this P.S. Motor Trench has been to find three ways to wear the full-length coat, where many readers can relate to at least one combination.

I start with a word of caution for readers sensitive to slim-cut denim and bare ankles in tassel loafers! Ingest snacks like cashews, or firmly baked biscuits with your tea carefully, as we now venture into content that might challenge your ideas of what is considered appropriate attire.

My own wardrobe and the knowledge on which it is built are constantly evolving. A core value though has always been the aforementioned “bang for the buck” in terms of style, cut, longevity and proportion to my financial means at the time. I believe this is the starting point for most people interested in style and clothing. Some of us continuously adapt, investing more money in fewer, better garments when our finances allow us, while others repeatedly continue to buy cheap even though they can afford better quality at a higher price. This is where truly sustainable consumption differs from the common made-up marketing version of it. Most of us want to do our part in saving the planet, right?

A style-reflection on a sustainable full-length coat.
Words By Mikael Vallin & Images By Donna Rasmussen

The other day, I heard Jeremy Hackett quote a phrase that is fundamental to my own philosophy: “I’m too poor to buy cheap shoes”, speaking of Crockett & Jones, born and made in Northampton since 1879. A witty yet profound way of saying, “You get what you pay for”. As you are reading this here in the Private White V.C. Journal, this understanding may very well already be second nature to you. Nevertheless, I still want to seize the opportunity to put my own words on the matter, followed by three laid-back interpretations of the classic Olive Permanent Style Motor Trench.

I must willingly admit, far from every piece in my wardrobe is hand-sewn, or even locally manufactured. Most of them are fairly timeless though and need not be replaced to reflect current fashion. When it comes to components such as shoes, watches and the star of today’s show, outerwear, I never compromise. These are the absolute cornerstones of one´s wardrobe regarding style and function, keeping you elegant, on time, dry and comfortable. Premium quality items will stand the test of time and silently signal a deeper knowledge and understanding of what matters to those who know. Most important of all, they are an absolute joy to wear day after day.

Private White V.C. first caught my attention back in 2014, a bit the same way you suddenly lock eyes with a gorgeous stranger on the tube in rush hour traffic, with a feeling that lingers long after you part. I was attracted to their timeless cuts, a hand and make that knocked your socks off when worn, and details in belts, collars and pockets that kept that initial crush alive over the years. Their Mancunian swagger often adds that bit of attitude I want my own style to signal.

For most of us, cost is an important deciding factor when buying clothing, alongside making a purchase that has longevity. Sustainability in clothing is deeply rooted in how long your garment will look good and be wearable. A very hands-on definition of a sustainable garment is “cost per wear”, during the garment’s entire lifespan. Simply divide the price you paid for the garment by the number of times you predict you´ll wear it. For example, an £1,100 coat worn three times a week, six months a year for ten years, costs about £1.50 per wear. A timeless, premium coat will at this stage be a desirable classic with a beautiful patina, have quite a few more years of wear, and some brands even offer lifetime repairs.

Being 186cm tall (6’1”) I’ve often struggled to find a trench coat with sufficient length to balance my frame. I also want it to be waterproof and breathable, hence rubber laminating is out of the question. I found my solution in The Olive Permanent Style Motor Trench made of Ventile, a densely woven waterproof cotton fabric. Its tone harmonizes with most other garments in my wardrobe, blues and browns as well as greys and blacks.

The design goes hand in hand with my philosophy that every combination should hold a significant measure of attitude and rock’n roll. The oversized collar, the slanted map pocket, and the asymmetric half belt sets it apart from the ocean of beige, checkered lining coats out there, giving the coat (and its wearer) an unmistakable identity and integrity. The coat’s well balanced sleeve width comfortably accommodates a heavy jacket sleeve, at the same time as it is not too wide and flowy to wear with just a shirt or a sweater.

We can probably all agree that a full-length coat like this one needs to be worn in carefully thought-through ensembles. The other evening, my dog called for a highly urgent walk during the pouring rain. In the spur of the moment, I hurriedly grabbed the coat for rain protection, along with my brown crushable fedora, a taupe/off-white polka dot cotton scarf, the denim shorts I was already wearing (hence bare legs) and feet hastily shoved into my Mizuno Inspires, otherwise only strictly used for long-distance running. As I walked the streets of central Stockholm, I sensed my somewhat bizarre bare-legged appearance probably set off a loud flasher alert, no matter how ´film noir´ I felt in spirit. Despite a downpour of biblical proportions though, I stayed perfectly dry! Even the mighty Boyer himself said the upper part looked quite debonair, with an international correspondent flair, the bottom part not taken into consideration.

A highly relevant question is: Can any man wear a full-length trench coat, and get away with it in style? Spontaneously, yes! With a slight reservation that you are tall enough. Even a full-length coat needs to allow for some of the wearer’s legs to show, hence tailoring adjustments of the garment length might be required.

Expressions such as transparency, sustainability and responsible production are keenly used by a wide variety of brands and manufacturers, where “organic cotton” tags and greenwashed marketing play central roles in their communication. Still, many of their garments are made with lesser quality, in low-cost labour countries and trendy colours making them last a couple of seasons at the most. Many of them soon end up in world devastating landfills. Currently, I see a wave of cheap clayish pink garments on both men and women. Clothes that will soon likely represent these “fast fashion” landfills, no matter with which intent they were bought.

Author Mikael Vallin is a creative vagabond, who over the last 15 years has spread menswear mischief online with various brands and manufacturers. He is currently writing for menswear magazine Plaza Uomo and collaborating with brands and stores who understand the value of attracting the right crowd, rather than commercially trying hard to please the mainstream. With a penchant for well-made menswear, live gigs and long-distance running, he cultivates his passion for style, marketing and preaching it to people who get it. Mikael firmly believes that life is too short for trying to convince people who do not want to understand: “If you focus on what you truly believe in, you will eventually attract the right crowd, and, that everything in life is better with a bit of rock’n roll added”.

Cotton Blazer, Jeans & Loafers

For days spent writing in various coffee shops or co-working spaces, I often enjoy jeans worn with a casual cotton canvas blazer and a polka dot scarf with a proper height button-down shirt collar. Until temperatures drop below zero, I rarely use socks, unless the situation calls for them to make things more appropriate. These made-in-England loafers have fit comfortably since the first wear.

Casual Suit, Chambray Shirt & Shantung Silk Tie

I have a soft spot for suits made of heavy textured fabrics like tweed, flannel and corduroy. To be honest, a soft “spot” is a heavy understatement as we’re rather talking about a bloody vast virtual marshland-sized soft area for these garments. Like, New Forest sized. Anyway. I highly enjoy wearing this coat with these kinds of suits, along with textured ties like knits, flannels and shantungs. Chambray shirts add a laid-back everyday vibe to the context, as long as they have collars made with a height and length to properly accommodate a tight four in hand. Dark brown grain leather longwing brogues, also made in England, are by far my favourites to wear with these suits.

My own wardrobe and the knowledge on which it is built are constantly evolving. A core value though has always been the aforementioned “bang for the buck” in terms of style, cut, longevity and proportion to my financial means at the time. I believe this is the starting point for most people interested in style and clothing. Some of us continuously adapt, investing more money in fewer, better garments when our finances allow us, while others repeatedly continue to buy cheap even though they can afford better quality at a higher price. This is where truly sustainable consumption differs from the common made-up marketing version of it. Most of us want to do our part in saving the planet, right?

Expressions such as transparency, sustainability and responsible production are keenly used by a wide variety of brands and manufacturers, where “organic cotton” tags and greenwashed marketing play central roles in their communication. Still, many of their garments are made with lesser quality, in low-cost labour countries and trendy colours making them last a couple of seasons at the most. Many of them soon end up in world devastating landfills. Currently, I see a wave of cheap clayish pink garments on both men and women. Clothes that will soon likely represent these “fast fashion” landfills, no matter with which intent they were bought.

In stark contrast, low-key businesses and factories like P.W.V.C. still manufacture clothes locally, with a century or more of experience and knowledge, true style and quality. Brands that have lasted through thick and thin, because they create timeless garments that last. Their clothes cost noticeably more to buy but will over time be cheaper per wear and survive the lesser-made greenwashed marketing clothes by decades. The question you only need to ask yourself now is: Are you also too poor to buy cheap shoes?

Author Mikael Vallin is a creative vagabond, who over the last 15 years has spread menswear mischief online with various brands and manufacturers. He is currently writing for menswear magazine Plaza Uomo and collaborating with brands and stores who understand the value of attracting the right crowd, rather than commercially trying hard to please the mainstream. With a penchant for well-made menswear, live gigs and long-distance running, he cultivates his passion for style, marketing and preaching it to people who get it. Mikael firmly believes that life is too short for trying to convince people who do not want to understand: “If you focus on what you truly believe in, you will eventually attract the right crowd, and, that everything in life is better with a bit of rock’n roll added”.