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Glossary of Terms

Action Pleat: Can come in three different variations it became popular for anyone who needed to move freely and more quickly in their jackets. 1. The Darted Half Belt 2. The Inverted Box Pleat 3. The Bi-Swing Back

Alcantara: Is composed of about 68% polyester and 32% polyurethane, giving increased durability and stain resistance.

Basket Weave: A style of weave or a pattern resembling basketwork.

Bellow Pockets: A pocket with an expansion pleat applied to the outside of a garment.

Brushed Cotton: A cotton fabric that is brushed to remove excess lint and fibres to leave a soft smooth finish. An extremely tactile fabric that is pleasant to the touch.

Butcher Buttons: Removable buttons which can be removed prior to washing a garment. They can be reattached or changed.

Blanket Clip: Is a clip located on the twin track belt that is used to seal the belt.

Chambray: A cloth with white weft and coloured warp. The chambray’s warp and weft threads will alternate one over the other.

Cashmere: A fibre obtained from cashmere goats. Common usage defines the fibre as wool but it is finer and softer than sheep’s wool.

Dry Wax: It is a cotton jacket made water-resistant by waxing the item. Dry Wax essentially means it has a dry finish to the product as opposed to wet wax finish.

ECOSEAM®: Is an exclusive Private White V.C. fabric finish that can be applied to any textile to bestow water-resistant properties.

Epaulettes: An ornamental shoulder piece found on an item of clothing, commonly on coats or jackets of a military uniform.

Gauge: The term used for the number of needles per inch on a knitting machine: this determines the weight of the fabric. For example, the higher the gauge, the finer the knitwear will be. Modern machinery no longer uses “gauge”, and refers to needle size. The most common gauges are: • 30G Super fine • 21G Fine • 15G Medium • 9G Heavy • 3G Chunky

Hanger Loop: A loop made of outer material, attached to an item of clothing in order to offer a way of hanging the garment without a hanger.

Inset Sleeve: or a ‘set-in’ sleeve is probably the most common type of sleeve found on garments. The sleeve is a separate piece that is sewn to the bodice at an armhole that meets at the outer edge of the shoulder. This style of sleeve gives a more professional, formal and possibly natural look.

Jet Pockets: The jetted flap pocket is standard for hip pockets, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. It has a lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket, sewn in along the seam of the jetting. This flap was initially created to protect the contents of the pocket from any rain.

Jersey: A plain weft-knitted fabric that can be made of wool, cotton or silk and used especially for clothing

Lapped Seams: Two or more piles of material are lapped (i.e., with edges overlaid, plain or folded) and joined with one or more rows of stitches.

Bound Seams: These are formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the piles of material and joining both edges of the binding to the material with one or more rows of stitching.

Linen: Is a textile made from the fibres of the flax plant. The fibre is very absorbent and garments made of linen are valued for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.

Loro Piana Storm System: A Loro Piana fabric that consists of a double barrier: the water-repellent Rain System that ensures that drops of water slide on the surface of the fabric, and the exclusive hydrophilic membrane that is resistant to water, windproof and allows the skin to breathe.

Merino: The Merino fabric originates from an economically influential breed of sheep prized for its wool. Merino wool is finely crimped and soft.

Moleskin: Moleskin is a heavy cotton fabric, woven and then sheared to create a short, soft pile on one side. In feel and appearance its nap is similar to felt or chamois, but less plush than velour. The word is also used for clothing made from this fabric.

Mother-of-pearl: a smooth shining iridescent substance forming the inner layer of the shell of some molluscs, especially oysters and abalones, can be used to create buttons.

Nylon: Nylon is a polymer, a plastic with super-long, heavy molecules built up of short, endlessly repeating sections of atoms, just like a heavy metal chain is made of ever-repeating links.

Patch Pockets: the patch pocket is sewn on the outside of the garment rather than sewn between the shell and the lining. The shape and size of the patch pocket can vary greatly.

Pique Cotton: Pique refers to a weaving style, normally used with cotton yarn, which is characterized by raised parallel cords or fine ribbing. It creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a waffle weave. Commonly used for polo shirts.

Placket: An opening or slit in a garment, covering fastenings or for access to a pocket, or the flap of fabric under such an opening.

Raglan Sleeve: A raglan sleeve is a type of sleeve whose distinguishing characteristic is to extend in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone giving the garment a relatively undefined look.

Removable Central Placket: A central placket is a piece of fabric that can be either sewn in or be removed. It adds space and more room to a garment. An example of this is the removable placket found on the twin track.

Seersucker: A lightweight fabric with a crimped or puckered surface.

Seam Sealed: Where a garment has been given additional waterproofing qualities by using sealing tape to seal any seams. For example, the Private White V.C. SB Unlined 2.0 is a Ventile® jacket that has been seam sealed in our factory using copper sealing tape.

Suede: Is a type of leather with a napped finish commonly used for jackets, shoes and leather goods. It has a very soft finish and is commonly considered more luxurious than leather.

Tin Cloth: A thick cotton canvas that's milled by century-old mills in Scotland, Tin Cloth is coated in a proprietary oil-finish wax.

Two-way Zip: Outerwear jackets and cardigans can close with a two-way zipper. The two-way zipper, with two pulls, allows the wearer to keep the garment zipped while leaving the lower portion open.

Ventile®: Ventile®, originally invented at the Shirley Institute in Manchester during WWII, is densely woven from 100% cotton using the world’s finest long staple fibre. Ventile® is not coated or laminated yet the combination of the dense weave and the swelling properties of the fibres when wet provide excellent weatherproofing. It is an entirely natural product that offers a unique level of comfort, look and feel as well as being windproof, highly breathable and extremely durable.

Viscose: Viscose rayon fibre is a soft fibre commonly used in linings.

Wet Wax: It is a cotton jacket made water-resistant by a paraffin-based waxing the item.  Wet Wax essentially means it has a wet finish to the product as opposed to dry wax finish.

Yoke: Yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders, or around the hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment, such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt.

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